Returning to the scene of the crime: Mary, Patti and a parade of Presidents

Dang. I had every intention of writing every day while we were here but there just aren’t enough hours in the day when you’re in New Orleans.

We didn’t catch any of the Presidents’ speeches. We didn’t go by the Convention Center and relive our time there. We didn’t get angry. We rarely got sad. We basically decided to just talk to people and hear what they had to say.

Rather than try to write about all the wonderful folks we’ve met - folks who’ve shared their stories, shared tears and laughs, danced with us and gave us hugs – I’m just going to pass on their wild words of wisdom. I can't even remember them all, and these are just a small sampling, but these snippets capture a small slice of NOLA life:

“I’ve paid my ticket now I’m livin’ my life,” nice older man at Oakland airport struggling to put his shoes back on.

Rory (wearing a NASA t-shirt), bar back at 13 on Frenchman St. Rory came to New Orleans from Boston three months ago after attending his sister’s graduation from Tulane and just stayed: “People are stupid….and then, there’s space!” “BillCosbywhy?” One word.

The friendly fellow at Hunter’s Park who lost his four dogs in the flood,
“Get me a Budweiser.”

Mr. St. Claire, Vietnam vet, "I'm trawlin' for a bite." His zipper was down.

Beaming father at anniversary gathering in Congo Square telling the crowd that he is always proud of his daughter (the star of her high school basketball team) but he was particularly proud earlier in the day when she politely refused to have her picture taken with George W. Bush. Right on, little lady!!

“We made it out of the water,” Mardi Gras Indian at Tipitina's.

Jonathan, our vampire tour guide, “I have thousands of years of experience to share with you.”

Car full of rowdy frat boys driving down Royal St., “Y’all are lesbians!”

“Mary, what IS it?” said I when the hugest bug I’ve ever heard landed in my hair in the bayou at Jean Lafitte National Park.

“It’s hard work, but it’s honest work,” young man tap dancing on Decatur St.

Joseph at Checkpoint Charlies, "Y'all wanna meet my friends?'

Elderly gent (80+) on Bourbon St., “The night I peed my pants was the best night of my life!”

“Let’s have dinner next time you’re in town,” said Jenna who gave us her mini gold glittered cowboy hat. Jenna was a law student in New Orleans in 2005 and rode out Katrina at Charity hospital comforting the sick and elderly. Jenna now practices – maritime law!!! Crazy!

And to the sweet server at Café du Monde who rushed and got us our iced coffees ahead of several other people when Mary looked like she might pass out and to the wonderful server at Irene’s Cuisine who graciously showed us around the place even though they were about to close. ALL these folks are the true spirit of this town and what keeps me coming back for more.

To my wonderful husband, Mark, who understands. To Kate Kate Millosovich Ruggierowho wasn't able to join us…and last, but no way least, to Mary Millosovich…cuz we always make it out of the water!

Until next time...

Returning to the scene of the crime: Mary, Patti and a parade of Presidents in New Orleans

Broken Jesus

Some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet are folks from Louisiana and some of the nicest, most memorable you’ll meet are from New Orleans.  Quick with a hello, how y’all doin’? and a sassy story with a healthy dose of poetic license and twist of sardonic wit.  Always willing to lend a hand and a smile.

Somehow, this seems even truer now then ever.  After all they’ve been through and over the course of this illustrious city’s wild and tumultuous history, folks here just seem to understand more so than most – we are all in this together.

I met a lovely young woman today, Trudy - a raven-haired beauty with an accent and manner of cadence I could listen to all damn day.  Born and raised in Jean Lafitte, Louisiana, literally, “straight outta the bayou.”  Trudy is Cajun and Spanish with a little Chocktaw Indian thrown in for spice.  For generations the men her family have all been shrimpers and fishermen.  To people in the bayou who make their living off the land, hurricanes are just part of natural life.  Hurricanes “make sense” to folks like Trudy (who’s never had to pay for a single fish, shrimp or crab in her life – imagine!)

Trudy went on to tell me that her family had never really known hardship and fear until the BP oil spill.  That is a disaster they are still coping with today.  As you hopefully recall, over 200 million gallons of oil was leaked into the Gulf of Mexico in 2010.  It went on for 87 gut-wrenching days, making it the biggest oil spill in U.S. history.   The spill forced Trudy’s uncle to retire early and broke her father’s heart and spirit. 

“They (BP) threw a lot of money at that problem hoping people of the Gulf would move on and forget, “ Trudy said, “but the damage was done.”  She went on to give me a very detailed and somewhat complicated explanation of the damage done to the regional ecosystem that I am, unfortunately, too dense to relay back with any kind of accuracy.

When we started to talk about Katrina and the 10-year anniversary, Trudy got quiet. Since we’ve been here, whenever Mary and I tell locals our little piece of the Katrina story a look of horror and total understanding passes over them. 

“I’m so sorry that happened to you,” said Trudy, almost in tears, and I knew she meant it.

It is of great comfort to me to talk about our Katrina story without having to explain it.  I believe that’s part of the reason why I’m here.  Another reason:  some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet are folks from Louisiana and some of the nicest, most memorable you’ll meet are from New Orleans.